Massive, and often magnificent, are words that come to mind -- huge institutional apartment buildings in beige-yellow brick, Stalinesque gothic skyscrapers, the elegant Gum, and the scale of Red Square. In contrast, the several onion-domed chapels that surround St Basil's Cathedral are surprisingly intimate. Then, before we could see any more, the police appeared with bull-horns and cleared the square. Soldiers matched in for a rehearsal for Monday's Victory Day parade.
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